Can Paracress Help Smooth Fine Lines and Wrinkles?
As our skin ages, fine lines become more noticeable, firmness changes, and our skin may not feel quite as smooth as it once did.
I certainly notice these changes myself, particularly lip lines! And while I'd love to erase a few wrinkles, I'm not quite prepared to go down the Botox path!
Fortunately, there are some fascinating botanical ingredients worth exploring, including Acmella oleracea, also known as Paracress or Spilanthes.
It's one of the key ingredients in our Violet Leaf Refining Oil, alongside a blend of botanical oils chosen to help skin feel softer, smoother and more supple.
What is Paracress, and can it help with wrinkles?
Paracress is a small flowering plant, sometimes called the toothache plant. It contains a naturally occurring compound called spilanthol, which has attracted attention in skincare research.
And the findings are interesting!
A 2021 study published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science investigated a serum containing Acmella extract and reported improvements in facial wrinkle measurements, including around the eyes and mouth.
A further study published online in 2024 also examined the effects of an Acmella-containing formulation on skin hydration, texture and wrinkles.
The reported findings included improvements in:
Fine lines and wrinkles
Skin smoothness
Hydration
Skin texture and roughness
These findings are encouraging, although the results relate to the particular formulations tested, not Violet Leaf Refining Oil. They also don't establish that every Acmella extract will produce the same effects.
You may have heard Paracress described as a natural Botox alternative. While it sounds appealing, the two are quite different. Botox is an injectable treatment, while Acmella is a botanical cosmetic ingredient being explored for its potential to improve the appearance of fine lines and skin texture.
Botanical oils — naturally skin-loving
Botanical oils do more than simply soften our skin. Their fatty acids help support our natural skin barrier, reduce moisture loss and keep skin feeling comfortable and supple.
When developing Violet Leaf, I wanted a facial oil that felt nourishing without being heavy. I chose predominantly lightweight botanical oils, many of which are generally considered to have a low tendency to clog pores. Although everyone's skin responds differently, this makes the blend appealing for mature, dry and combination skin.
Hazelnut Oil — Lightweight nourishment
Often called a dry oil, hazelnut oil is beautifully light and leaves a soft, non-greasy finish.
Lightweight: Nourishes without feeling heavy.
Natural Vitamin E: Contains antioxidant tocopherols.
Skin comfort: Helps soften and condition dry or tight-feeling skin.
It's one of the ingredients that gives Violet Leaf its lovely, silky feel.
Prickly Pear Seed Oil — A remarkable desert botanical
The prickly pear cactus survives in hot, dry conditions, yet its tiny seeds produce an oil rich in valuable fatty acids and plant compounds.
Linoleic acid: Helps support the skin barrier and reduce moisture loss.
Vitamin E and plant sterols: Naturally occurring compounds with antioxidant and skin-conditioning properties.
An interesting Vitamin K connection: Vitamin K1 has been reported in prickly pear seed oil, although we don't yet know whether applying the oil offers the under-eye benefits sometimes associated with Vitamin K skincare.
Research into Prickly Pear Seed Oil has explored its fatty acids and naturally occurring compounds, including Vitamin E and reported Vitamin K1 content. You can read the research here. 2025 scientific paper discussing prickly pear seed oil .
Borage Oil — A special source of GLA
Borage is a beautiful flowering herb, but its seed oil is particularly special because it's naturally rich in gamma-linolenic acid (GLA).
What is GLA? An omega-6 fatty acid involved in healthy skin lipids and the body's natural inflammatory processes.
Exceptionally rich: Borage oil generally contains more GLA than Evening Primrose Oil.
For dry, delicate skin: Its fatty acids help condition the skin and support its protective barrier.
A scientific review comparing Borage and Evening Primrose oils found that Borage Oil contains approximately twice as much GLA as Evening Primrose Oil.
This makes Borage a lovely addition when our skin needs a little extra nourishment and comfort.
Cucumber Seed Oil — Lightweight care for blemish-prone and mature skin
Cold-pressed from cucumber seeds, this beautifully light oil contains approximately 60–68% linoleic acid (Omega-6), alongside oleic acid, Vitamin E and plant sterols.
For blemish-prone skin: Research into acne and skin lipids has identified lower levels of linoleic acid in the skin surface lipids of people with acne. This makes linoleic-acid-rich oils interesting, although it doesn't mean cucumber seed oil has been proven to treat acne.
For mature skin: Linoleic acid helps maintain the skin's protective barrier and limit moisture loss.
Light and silky: Conditions the skin without a heavy, greasy finish.
I particularly like Cucumber Seed Oil because it offers something for different skin types, from combination skin to skin becoming drier with age.
Violet Leaf, Blue Tansy and Rose de Mai — beautiful aromatic botanicals
These three botanicals bring their own distinctive aromas and fascinating natural chemistry to Violet Leaf Refining Oil.
Violet Leaf Absolute — The unexpected green side of violets
You might expect violets to smell sweet and floral, but the absolute extracted from their leaves is quite different.
A beautiful green aroma: Fresh, earthy and slightly reminiscent of cucumber.
Fascinating natural chemistry: Violet Leaf Absolute contains a complex blend of aromatic plant compounds that give it its distinctive character.
Traditionally soothing: Violet leaves have long been used in botanical preparations for delicate, dry or uncomfortable skin, inspiring their use in gentle skincare rituals.
I love the fresh, grounding character it brings to the blend.
Blue Tansy — A beautiful blue botanical for skin comfort
Blue Tansy (Tanacetum annuum) has cheerful yellow flowers, yet its essential oil develops a remarkable deep blue colour during distillation.
Naturally rich in chamazulene: This compound is responsible for its beautiful blue colour and has attracted interest for its potential skin-calming properties.
Antioxidant activity: A 2014 laboratory study on chamazulene demonstrated antioxidant and free-radical-scavenging activity. The research examined chamazulene isolated from chamomile oil, rather than testing Blue Tansy or a finished facial oil.
For delicate-feeling skin: Blue Tansy is often selected for formulations designed to care for skin that feels dry or uncomfortable.
I love how this little yellow flower produces such an extraordinary blue oil. It's one of the botanicals that makes Violet Leaf so special.
Rose de Mai Absolute — The exquisite hundred-petalled rose
Also known as Rosa centifolia, Rose de Mai is treasured in fine perfumery for its beautiful, complex fragrance.
A remarkable flower: Often called the hundred-petalled rose because of its wonderfully full blooms.
Beautifully floral: Rich rose notes with soft honeyed and fresh green undertones.
Botanical interest: Different rose extracts have attracted scientific interest for their naturally occurring plant compounds. However, findings from other types of rose extracts cannot automatically be applied to Rose de Mai Absolute.
Rose de Mai brings a lovely softness and elegance to the blend.
Together, these botanicals create Violet Leaf's delicate fragrance — earthy, softly floral and fresh.
Kerry Ann
Amisi Skincare
founder
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